Gāmchhā (Bengali: গামছা), also known as Gamchhā, Gāmuchhā (Odia-ଗାମୁଛା), Gamusā (Assamese-গামোচা) and Angochha, is a rectangular piece of traditional coarse cotton cloth, sometimes with a checked design, worn as traditional scarf by men in the Indian subcontinent, mainly in Bangladesh, Eastern India (including Assam), as well as in eastern Terai of Nepal.[1] It also became bit popular in other cultures of India and now in what is known as Pakistan after the Indian partition, as well as various parts of South and Southeast Asia. The word "Gamcha" is Bengali which comes from two very simple and commonly used Bengali words, (গা) ga which means "Body", and (মুছা) mucha which means "wipe". Literally translated, it means 'something to wipe the body with' however, interpreting the word gamcha as the towel is misleading.[2] It is often worn on one side of the shoulder. Its appearance varies from region to region, and it has been traditionally worn as a scarf by the Odia men and Bengali men. Gamcha is also a headwear for Bengali men in Bangladesh.[3] Gamucha was also mentioned in OdiaMahabharata by Sarala Dasa as part of the traditional dress of Odia men.[4][5][6] Weavers of traditional tantubaya or jugi community migrated from Bangladesh to Tripura and weavers of Odisha produce good quality gamucha.[7]
The gamcha is most commonly found with check and striped patterns of red, orange or green. Plain white gamchhas with coloured (embroidered or printed) borders from Odisha and Assam (for traditional Assamese Gamcha, see Gamosa) are local handicrafts, and may be worn around the neck with traditional Indian attire. In western areas, gamchas are primarily made in red colour and are plain like cloth. In southern India, gamucha is more coarse and are available in various dyes. Even homemade lightweight fur towels are also popularly termed as gamchhas. Gamucha are worn by the South Asian people, especially in the Indian states of Assam, Bihar, Odisha, West Bengal, Jharkhand and the Purvanchal region, because they are better suited to the country's tropical, humid climate. They may also be found in hamams as a traditional male loincloth and towel worn during bathing and massage.
Assamese gamosa or Gamusa in Assam has a place of special use : it is given as a token of honour and respect to esteemed guest. In Bihu Dance male dancers wear it as a headscarf. The traditional Assamese dress is complete only when one wears a gamusa.
In Ahom King days, Ahom soldiers wife's used to weave a gamusa within a night and present it to her husband to ensure safety and victory.
Handkerchief or Towel
Gamcha is also used sometimes as a handkerchief or towel for personal use such as wiping the face.
Loincloth and headscarf
Gamcha is also worn as knee long loin cloths by people of the poorer sections of society, especially menial labourers and farm workers. They are also used as a headscarf, similar to the Middle Eastern keffiyeh in rural areas.[8]
Farmers were already using it in rural areas for various purposes, Gamcha became an alternative cloth face mask in rural India. The WHO guidelines [9] for the necessary use of masks for protection from COVID increased its importance, and it became a choice of face masks by simply wearing on face. The need for this traditional piece of clothing has risen further since the Prime Minister of India made a television speech wearing Gamcha(a Manipuri gamcha, also known as Meitei Lengyan). It was trending since then in urban areas too.[10][11][12]
Commercial aspects
Gamcha is produced as a primary handloom product by traditional weavers. Presently the production of coarse handmade gamucha is slowing down in Odisha.[13] A 1,455.3 metre long Gamucha displayed in Delhi created world record as it became world's longest hand woven piece of cloth.[14]
^Orissa (India). Harijan & Tribal Welfare Dept (1990). Tribes of Orissa. Harijan and Tribal Welfare Department, Government Of Orissa. Retrieved 5 June 2012.
^"dress". orissa.gov.in. 2003. Archived from the original on 23 December 2012. Retrieved 5 June 2012. tying it around the head as turban when necessary