The oldest strudel recipes (a Millirahmstrudel and a turnip strudel) are from 1696, in a handwritten cookbook at the Wienbibliothek im Rathaus (formerly Wiener Stadtbibliothek).[2] The pastry is probably descended from similar pastries such as börek and baklava.[3]
Although it is known by its German name in most language areas, it used to be called by its Hungarian name, rétes. The menu at the Ritz hotel in Paris in the early 19th century, for example, included 'Rétes Hongrois', for which the strudel flour was ordered from Hungary and the pâtissiers were sent to Pest to learn.[8]
Pastry
Traditional strudel pastry differs from puff pastry in that it is very elastic. It is made[9] from flour with a high gluten content, water, oil and salt, with no sugar added. The dough is worked vigorously, rested, and then rolled out and stretched by hand very thinly with the help of a clean linen tea towel[10] or kitchen paper.[11] There are numerous techniques for manually pulling strudel dough. One method is to roll the dough thin before laying it over the back of the hands and drawing it thin by pulling the hands apart from one another.[12] Purists say that it should be so thin that you can read a newspaper through it. A legend has it that the Austrian Emperor's perfectionist cook decreed that it should be possible to read a love letter through it. The thin dough is laid out on a tea towel, and the filling is spread on it. The dough with the filling on top is rolled up carefully with the help of the tea towel and baked in the oven.
The dough is rolled or stretched thin; then it is filled and rolled.Two baked strudels
Varieties
The best-known strudels are apple strudel (Apfelstrudel in German) and Topfenstrudel (with sweet soft quark cheese, in Austrian German Topfen), followed by the Millirahmstrudel (milk-cream strudel, Milchrahmstrudel). Other strudel types include sour cherry (Weichselstrudel), sweet cherry, nut filled (Nussstrudel), apricot strudel, plum strudel, poppy seed strudel (Mohnstrudel), rhubarb strudel and raisin strudel.[13] There are also savoury strudels incorporating spinach, cabbage, potato, pumpkin, and sauerkraut,[14] and versions containing meat fillings such as the Lungenstrudel or Fleischstrudel.
In Hungary, the most common fillings include raisin-cottage cheese (túrós rétes), sour cherries (meggyes rétes), apples (almás rétes), poppy seeds (mákos rétes), walnuts (diós rétes), though sour cream and tejberizs (sweet rice porridge) also used to be common.
Strudel (in Yiddish: שטרודל, pron. shtrudl) in general is also associated with Ashkenazi Jewish cuisine, particularly of German, Swiss, and Austrian Ashkenazi Jews. Apple and raisin filling is popular,[16] but cabbage has historically also been used as a filling for a savoury strudel.[17][18][19] The cabbage is braised or caramelized with sliced onions and caraway seeds, sometimes with added sugar. Recipes may include chopped walnuts. Cabbage strudel (káposztás rétes in Hungarian) is especially associated with the cuisine of Hungarian Jews.[20]
The 19th-century American writer Alice Lee Moqué recorded an encounter with savoury strudel, ordered mistakenly as a dessert, in her account of her travels through Dalmatia (modern-day Croatia), at the Hotel Petka in Gravosa (Gruz). Assuming "Sprudel" was a type of "German sweetcake", Moqué's travel partner carelessly ordered a "Kraut sprudel", only to find the sweet pie crust was filled with "the most awful mixture" of hot, boiled cabbage.[21]
Observant Hungarian Jews would make the dough with oil and serve them for Simchat Torah and Purim, to match the customary drink imbibed at these celebrations.[22]
Gallery
Strudels in Budapest
Cherry strudel served with ice cream
Peach strudel
Wiener apple strudel
In culture
Symbol @ in Hebrew
In Hebrew colloquial speech, the symbol @ in email addresses is called "shtrudel" (שטרודל), a German loan word for the pastry. There is also an official Hebrew language word for the @ symbol: "keruchit" (כרוכית), this also being the formal word for the strudel pastry. In both cases, the allusion is to the spiral form of strudel.[23] (Other languages have evolved a name for the symbol in a similar way, by borrowing a food term, for example: rollmops in Czech and Slovak; and kanelbulle in Swedish.[24])
In Hungary, rétes, a traditional Hungarian strudel is consumed at Farsang or New Year, because it is believed to bring good luck and a long life. It is also the subject of several traditional Hungariannursery rhymes, two of which are Aki nem lép egyszerre ('who doesn't match the pace') and Tekeredik a rétes ('the snake coils'):
Who doesn't match the pace,
No rétes for the evening,
For strudel is very good,
It's what a soldier needs
We're not going far
Only to the edge of the world
We won't be staying there long either
Only for twelve hours
— Traditional. "Aki nem lép egyszerre" ('who doesn't match the pace')
The snake coils,
Wants to be a rétes,
The rétes coils,
Wants to be a snake
— Traditional. "Tekeredik a rétes" ('the snake coils')
"The snake coils" is sung while children do a special circle dance, imitating the coiling and shapeshifting of the snake.[25]
^N.N.: Koch Puech. Ein Vortrefflich und Gerechtes Koch Puech, darinen bey 1350 Rahre und Kostbahre Speisen begreiffen Nemblichen vor aller Hand Pastetten und Dortten gebachenen Sulzen ... [!] Unterschudliche guete Suppen auch von Fischen Und dergleichen andrer Wahrmen Speisen mehr zu Kochen und zue Zurichten, 1696. Vienna City Library, Manuscript department, H.I.N. 18845
.jpg)
